Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Wi-fi trouble
I'm having a great deal of trouble with my AT&T hot spot, for which I have purchased an international plan, in addition to the plan for connection in the US. The international connection has never worked, despite my 7th call to AT&T today. I was promised that it was fixed, but of course it does not work. I'm now using a very weak wi-fi connection at the RV park. If anyone knows a person of importance at AT&T, please let me know! I have spoken with several supervisors, but no help there. I'm frustrated, and getting angry! I don't mind paying for a service that actually works, but to be told over and over again that it will work, and continuing to pay in the hopes that at some point it will be fixed...not so much.
Thursday, August 7, 2014
Tok - my last night in Alaska, until I return...
Tok is 93 miles from the Canadian border, and tomorrow I will leave Alaska and head back to Portland to visit family. After talking with a couple who had just traversed the Top of the World Highway, I decided against driving it. They were on a section of the road that is one lane wide because a portion of the road had slid down the mountain in the recent rains, leaving a dangerous cliff, and a big truck was coming from the other direction. There was no place to pull to the side or turn around, and they had to back up their RV for about half a mile. The woman was petrified because there were steep cliffs on either side of the very narrow road. This was not the first scary story I have heard about this highway. Maybe some other time...this will not be my only trip to Alaska - it's an amazing place and I feel fortunate to have been here. As the natives say, the fireweed has begun to turn their flowers to cottony balls, and the short summer is almost over.
My campsite in Tok
My campsite in Tok
Beautiful Scenery and the Pipeline
The Tanana River just north of Delta Junction.
A few miles south of Delta Junction the pipeline crosses the Tanana River. Regardless of how you feel about the pipeline running from the Arctic Ocean to Valdez, carrying millions of barrels of oil, it is a fascinating engineering feat. The most pressing environmental hazard is probably the risk of a large oil spill, which would be disastrous. The animal trails in some sections have been altered as well. The concrete pilons, which are huge, are filled with a liquid that keeps the warm temp from the oil from melting the permafrost below the ground. There was a truck with security guards, but the area was surprisingly accessible.
A few miles south of Delta Junction the pipeline crosses the Tanana River. Regardless of how you feel about the pipeline running from the Arctic Ocean to Valdez, carrying millions of barrels of oil, it is a fascinating engineering feat. The most pressing environmental hazard is probably the risk of a large oil spill, which would be disastrous. The animal trails in some sections have been altered as well. The concrete pilons, which are huge, are filled with a liquid that keeps the warm temp from the oil from melting the permafrost below the ground. There was a truck with security guards, but the area was surprisingly accessible.
The Road Kill List - warning graphic images
A few posts ago I wrote about the Road Kill List - if a moose, bear, deer or caribou is killed by a vehicle, there are people who have put their name on this list who are contacted. They have a limited amount of time to get to the dead animal and butcher it on site. As I was driving along on the Richardson Highway near Delta Junction, I saw a very damaged semi truck parked on the side of the road, and just ahead on my side of the road were two vehicles parked and two men were in the ditch. I stopped to see if everyone was ok and one of the men said they had a moose road kill. The semi truck had hit and killed the moose, and the man on the kill list was called while he was at work. He and his son immediately located the moose and got to work. If you can't respond when you are called, you are eliminated from the list. Timing is crucial to butcher the animal while the meat is fresh. I stopped to watch for a while, and the father and son were happy to explain everything. There were three children in one of the cars, babbling away in Russian, apparently unfazed by the butchering. Warning - these photos are not for the faint of heart, but I found the whole thing fascinating. If you want to understand a bit about Alaska and how different life is up here, it's good to experience some things you might never see elsewhere.
The head of the animal is not usable, so it is removed and discarded, left for other animals to eat. The lower legs have also been removed and discarded so it's difficult to see just how tall the animal was. These are very big creatures.
The truck's load was picked up by another semi, but the truck is total loss.
Thank you to these two men who took the time to talk to me about this process. They offered to give me a steak but I would have had to stick around for a while. Alaska is a very different way of life. It's about oil, hunting, and fishing. I was told by these men that most Alaskans own guns. But the reasons they own guns here are different than the "lower 48" - according to the two men. Hunting sustains their lives, and protection from bears and wolves is necessary. However you feel about gun ownership, it's a part of Alaskan life.
The head of the animal is not usable, so it is removed and discarded, left for other animals to eat. The lower legs have also been removed and discarded so it's difficult to see just how tall the animal was. These are very big creatures.
The truck's load was picked up by another semi, but the truck is total loss.
Thank you to these two men who took the time to talk to me about this process. They offered to give me a steak but I would have had to stick around for a while. Alaska is a very different way of life. It's about oil, hunting, and fishing. I was told by these men that most Alaskans own guns. But the reasons they own guns here are different than the "lower 48" - according to the two men. Hunting sustains their lives, and protection from bears and wolves is necessary. However you feel about gun ownership, it's a part of Alaskan life.
Denali National Park and Preserve
Denali - even the name is majestic. This incredible place was was established in 1917 as Mount McKinley National Park, and renamed Denali in 1980. The area encompasses The Alaska Mountain range, both the south and the north sides, 250 miles from the Arctic Circle. The park is open all year, however access in the winter is via skis, snow machine, or dog sled. In the summer personal vehicles are allowed only a short distance into the park, unless you have a campground reservation at Teklanika camp, 29 miles into the park. I was lucky to get camp reservations there for three nights. The Athabascan Indians, the native people of the area, named the mountain Denali, which means "big mountain". In 1896 a prospector named William Dickey renamed the mountain McKinley, after a presidential candidate - he was not even the president at the time. McKinley had no connection to Alaska. It was not until 1980 that the name was returned to Denali by the Alaskan Board of Geographic Names, but the US Board of Geographic Names still shows the name as McKinley. The first ascent of the true summit was made in 1913 by Hudson Stuck, who refused to refer to the mountain as McKinley, and used the name Denali out of respect for the native people.
The terrain of Denali is varied - mountains, tundra, rivers, forests.
These areas are tundra, which lies over permafrost. Tundra supports a great amount of plant and animal life. Trees do not grow well in tundra, since the permafrost is frozen year-round and does not percolate water, so there are areas of standing water, with little nutrients that are necessary for trees. Some trees will struggle and may grow, but will never reach their full height.
The Visitors' Center
The terrain of Denali is varied - mountains, tundra, rivers, forests.
These areas are tundra, which lies over permafrost. Tundra supports a great amount of plant and animal life. Trees do not grow well in tundra, since the permafrost is frozen year-round and does not percolate water, so there are areas of standing water, with little nutrients that are necessary for trees. Some trees will struggle and may grow, but will never reach their full height.
The Visitors' Center
On the dirt and gravel road out to Teklanika camp I saw this caribou. Every few minutes I would stop and look through my new amazing binoculars that I purchased in Fairbanks, looking for animals.
Welcome to Camp Teklanika! There is drinking water here, and pit toilets. Otherwise it is wild country.
My rainy campsite. It rained the entire time I was there.
The Savage River, a perfect example of a "braided" river. There are a lot of trailheads here.
The Serenity River, one of many in the park
I really wanted to see another moose. The first one I saw was while driving on the Cassiar Hwy, and he/she ran into the tees so quickly I barely had time to see. I was disappointed when it was time to leave the park and I had not spotted another moose. On the drive out I parked many times and scanned with the binoculars - no moose. I decided to stop at the Visitors' Center to grab lunch on the way out, and guess what!!! A mama moose and her calf, strolling through the parking lot between the cars. That's the thing about Alaska - nature and animals aren't "out there" - "out there" is everywhere. Bears stroll through camps and towns, and caribou roam at will. Humans are definitely in the minority here.
I was sorry to leave Denali without seeing THE MOUNTAIN under clear skies, but it was time to move on. I will return someday.
Thursday, July 31, 2014
Fairbanks
Map - July 31 Leaving Fairbanks today and headed back to Healy, then into Denali next Monday. I still haven't decided which route to take on the way back to Oregon - I keep hearing horror stories about the Top of the World Highway and the highway that goes north from Fairbanks to the Arctic Circle. Rains are making the roads muddy and slippery, since they are paved in only small sections. A caravan of 23 RVs is parked near me, and 17 of them have to replace tires while they are here in Fairbanks - all from the Top of the World Hwy.
On the road to Fairbanks, and near Denali NP, I saw this mountain and was struck by how pretty it was, with the sun peeking through the clouds and shining on the snow.
The view from the RV park in Fairbanks - the Chena River and houses. All sorts of boats go by, from canoes to speed boats. The "mosquito authority" sign is for a company that promises to rid your garden of the pests with child and pet friendly chemicals. Hmmmm right next to a river...
And look who's here! One of the Milepost writers! The Milepost is the bible of Alaskan travel. Don't leave home without it! Mickey, this photo is for you!
Fairbanks is a typical small city, with strip malls and even a Fred Meyer. One day I drove out of town to find the dog musher museum, which of course was all closed down. But Koka loved running along the trail. It's a practice course for the sled dogs - 50.00 dollars for a winter of unlimited trail use. It's a beautiful area, with a few farms, and fields of cows.
Tomorrow I will head south to Denali National Park, where I will await clear skies so just maybe I will get to see THE MOUNTAIN. I have reservations at a camp inside the park but the weather forecast does not look promising. Please, just a few minutes of a clear sky!
On the road to Fairbanks, and near Denali NP, I saw this mountain and was struck by how pretty it was, with the sun peeking through the clouds and shining on the snow.
The view from the RV park in Fairbanks - the Chena River and houses. All sorts of boats go by, from canoes to speed boats. The "mosquito authority" sign is for a company that promises to rid your garden of the pests with child and pet friendly chemicals. Hmmmm right next to a river...
And look who's here! One of the Milepost writers! The Milepost is the bible of Alaskan travel. Don't leave home without it! Mickey, this photo is for you!
Fairbanks is a typical small city, with strip malls and even a Fred Meyer. One day I drove out of town to find the dog musher museum, which of course was all closed down. But Koka loved running along the trail. It's a practice course for the sled dogs - 50.00 dollars for a winter of unlimited trail use. It's a beautiful area, with a few farms, and fields of cows.
Tomorrow I will head south to Denali National Park, where I will await clear skies so just maybe I will get to see THE MOUNTAIN. I have reservations at a camp inside the park but the weather forecast does not look promising. Please, just a few minutes of a clear sky!
Palmer, Healy, and Nenana - on the road to Fairbanks
On the trek north to Fairbanks I stayed a few nights in Palmer. The fishing frenzy is happening here, as well. There are a lot of people with dip nets. These nets are huge - 5 feet in diameter. Alaska residents are the only ones allowed to possess or use these nets. Salmon swim right into the nets, and some times the nets are completely full of fish.
Scenes on the road to Palmer - it takes a long time to get anywhere because I keep stopping to look at the scenery!
The Kenai River and yes, it really is that beautiful color. Minerals in the melting glaciers cause the water to be turquoise.
A store in Palmer, where I stopped to poke around, and found some books for grandchildren.
Chatting with a woman who lives in the bush about 50 miles from Palmer, I learned that in the winter it is easier for them to travel to towns for supplies because everything is frozen and they can use sleds. There are no roads to their property so they use a four-wheeler, a dog sled, or a snow machine. Snow machines are known as sno-mobiles in the lower 48. In the spring and summer, after the "break-up", the swampy ground makes travel difficult. She also told me about the "roadkill list". This list is a waiting list for those who would like to use for food any moose that has been struck and killed by a vehicle. Nothing goes to waste out in the bush. If your name is up, you must go to retrieve the animal, butcher it, and save various parts, one being the lower jaw, to turn in to the authorities. If you are unable to retrieve the animal, you lose your turn and your name is removed. Hunting and fishing help to feed families during the long winter.
Not sure what's going on with this building...form follows function...
Byer Lake State Park, where I spent the night. It was beautiful, but hiking or even walking around was not possible because of the "bear in camp" warnings, and if the bear didn't get you, the mosquitos would. The state parks and public campgrounds are very rustic, without electricity or water, and that's what I prefer. But alas, I've had to avoid those camps because of the bears. Mama bears are roaming around with their new cubs, and that's a dangerous situation. The bears are also ravenous, and when they kill a moose or other animal, they let it "age", and if you come across the "aging" carcass and the bear is nearby, you're toast.
Koka exploring our campsite
The charming little village of Nenana -
The village cafe
A typical Alaskan house
The railroad station
I love this cabin that is now the visitors' center.
Scenes on the road to Palmer - it takes a long time to get anywhere because I keep stopping to look at the scenery!
The Kenai River and yes, it really is that beautiful color. Minerals in the melting glaciers cause the water to be turquoise.
A store in Palmer, where I stopped to poke around, and found some books for grandchildren.
Chatting with a woman who lives in the bush about 50 miles from Palmer, I learned that in the winter it is easier for them to travel to towns for supplies because everything is frozen and they can use sleds. There are no roads to their property so they use a four-wheeler, a dog sled, or a snow machine. Snow machines are known as sno-mobiles in the lower 48. In the spring and summer, after the "break-up", the swampy ground makes travel difficult. She also told me about the "roadkill list". This list is a waiting list for those who would like to use for food any moose that has been struck and killed by a vehicle. Nothing goes to waste out in the bush. If your name is up, you must go to retrieve the animal, butcher it, and save various parts, one being the lower jaw, to turn in to the authorities. If you are unable to retrieve the animal, you lose your turn and your name is removed. Hunting and fishing help to feed families during the long winter.
Not sure what's going on with this building...form follows function...
Byer Lake State Park, where I spent the night. It was beautiful, but hiking or even walking around was not possible because of the "bear in camp" warnings, and if the bear didn't get you, the mosquitos would. The state parks and public campgrounds are very rustic, without electricity or water, and that's what I prefer. But alas, I've had to avoid those camps because of the bears. Mama bears are roaming around with their new cubs, and that's a dangerous situation. The bears are also ravenous, and when they kill a moose or other animal, they let it "age", and if you come across the "aging" carcass and the bear is nearby, you're toast.
Koka exploring our campsite
The charming little village of Nenana -
The village cafe
A typical Alaskan house
The railroad station
I love this cabin that is now the visitors' center.
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